So you think you're busy?

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Many times I’ve wondered why so many people like to sit and complain about something and then, when the option comes for them to get up and do something about it, they remain seated and seem to come up with a reason that they are disinterested in action.  And this is after moaning and moaning about this thing or that stuff or “those people.”  And it was just so important that it’s worth taking up all that time and energy to talk about.

This is probably where phrases like “bark is bigger than bite,” and “walk the walk, or talk the talk” came from.  And it stands to reason that those doing the most talking, or barking as it were, do the least walking… or biting.

Well, I’m proud to say that I’m a biter.

Hey, before you put your head in the gutter, you know what I mean.  I’m talking about putting action behind my lust for adventure and for producing a world of media for us all to share.

When I was growing up, I always threatened to do things.  Normally they amounted to the more annoying things related to being a stubborn and unruly child.  But as my mother somberly recalls, I’d always actually do them.  So she grew to know my claims as solemn promises rather than empty threats.  And there have been only a few, very purposeful times in my life where this has not been the trend.

I can’t recall if it was for the satisfaction, or if it was my plan all along.  But I like to think that I have always been a man of action because this is just something we should all embrace: doing what we say we will do.

Having said that, I have always talked about the traveling and the writing and the photography that I’d someday publish.  And I always knew that I’d be doing it, too.  But until I started traveling, all I could do was fantasize.  Of course, my family traveled a lot when I was younger.  And I got to see a lot of the states.  But when I’d write in my journal or take my video camera and make little mini-movies with my brother, they would always be firmly grounded in our current location.

And so I’d wait.  Wait until the time of my life when I could finally break free from the shackles of normality and trade the mundane for the magical.

And I have realized with growing profundity over the course of the last nine years that I have finally made good on my youthful promises.  I’ve finally been able to climb over this giant challenge that I made to myself (and indeed to the world I’d consigned myself to explore) when I was younger.  And I have gone out into the world, produced a heap of photos, published several books and made a library of movies — all while traveling and seeing the grand planet that I knew was out there when I was a kid.

Why this whimsical trip down memory lane in an otherwise travel-focused blog?  Well, apart from releasing the blogs in January, I have been focusing on my latest film.  And along with taking up much of the time that I’d normally be blogging, it’s taken a lot of effort, too.

So much effort, in fact, that I have not gotten much sleep since the turn of the new year.  And the process for this film started even farther back than that.

In the last year, I spent nine months gathering footage for my feature length film in Taiwan. In doing so, I covered more than 5,000 miles on trains, cars, motorbikes, planes and boats — not to mention 20-or-so miles of hiking — while gathering 70-plus hours of footage, on which I spent the last two-and-a-half months and hundreds of hours cutting, composing, recutting and editing so that I could release it by the due date of February 28 (the official anniversary of the last day of filming).

And in that time, I’ve sifted through 114 Gigabytes worth of data spread out across 2,866 files from 68 folders of completely original media; and composed and added 15 musical themes and 215 soundtracks; all to produce one full length, two-hour film and more than four hours of extras and outtakes.

And this is in addition to editing dozens of photos, revamping two websites, editing 50-plus pages of my latest book, keeping up with this blog and shooting two weeks worth of footage for future media productions here in Malaysia.

In my personal life, last but not least, I was dealing with a lengthy personal challenge, moving halfway around the world and getting a job working as a college professor in a new place with very limited accommodations and still being expected to be at work on time and perform as I would under much less demanding circumstances.

Whew! Now THAT’S busy!

In any case, I’ve finished the film as of 9:30 last night.  And I am now awaiting the first render to finalize, which takes about 16 hours on my computer.  I will watch it for the first time in its completed form tonight and check for errors, transitional problems, good flow and all the other things that a good director should be watching for.

And when I am satisfied that it is worthy of the global audience, I’ll be releasing one more of my childhood dreams to the world.

I am very excited about this latest release.  It will be twice as long as my longest documentary to date.  And while that’s not necessarily a good thing in today’s fast paced, watch-on-the-go, five-minute YouTube videos, at the very least it will hold the potential to bring me into the realm of serious travelers and respected documentary filmmakers.  And that’s the exciting part — among all the other very fulfilling parts that come along with the finality of a year-long project.

This latest film was captured more like a journal than either of my two preceding films.  It wound up being 1:58 (1hr & 58m) and I was the only camera operator for most of the footage.  So many of the shots are handheld, pointed at myself and I even had to coordinate shot sequences so that I could later edit with that sequence in mind.  So not only did this project require a lot of forethought and planning, but it was also the result of a lot of introspection and taking lessons from what I learned in my journals and my previous filming expeditions.  I wanted that “gonzo journalist” style in this latest one.  And I think that my planning helped me achieve that.

And while I did keep journals from all of the places and experiences in this film, I never released them here on my blog.  So this latest doc also has a sense of nostalgia in that I am able to blog through one of my videos.  Trust me; it has the personal touch that comes through in this blog.  So I am happy to finally see it come to life.

As always, the film will be available for free as a 720/30p YouTube video.  But if you’d like to purchase a Full High Definition 1080p copy, it will come with all of the extra short films that were created, many outtakes that were not used in the feature, lots of HDR photos and trip journals.  And because you’re a subscriber of this blog or because you are subscribed to my YouTube channel or follow me on Twitter or Facebook, you’ll also get all the production photos, planning and script notes, a PDF of a signed script (originals available) and photos from the road that will never appear online.  It’s all ready for immediate download; all for $8.99!

Please visit the Travel Geek: Documentary Taiwan film page for more details and to view extras from the trip.  And when the film becomes available, I will update the blog and post the final details.

Thanks to those of you who have commented, shared, sent feedback throughout the filming and subscribed to my YouTube channel.  I hope you continue to share, comment and enjoy these as much as I enjoy making them.  I like knowing that I have created something for people to share and that makes the world a little bit better during the time that I happened to have visited.

Headed for Macau

Greetings all.

As the journals from the Philippines unfold, I will be headed to yet another filming trip in the Chinese Special Administration Region (SAR) of Macau.  I hope to be taking a chopper over to Hong Kong.  But that might not be in the cards.  But that might pale in comparison to the plans I have for diving off the tallest bungee experience in the world — the Macau Tower.

The video below details the gear that I will be bringing along for the ride and using for filming, blogging and hopefully releasing a video while I’m there.

The journals from the Philippines will still be released.  In fact, the last journal is slated for April 4 at 1pm EST.  So at that point I should be prepped to announce the book release and be finished with all the journals from the Southeast Asia portion of the blog.

Far East Asia is being filmed and documented now and I hope to have much more of that by the end of the year.  But until then, enjoy the rest of the SEA journals and I will see you stateside!
[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRBpoW4R-cU&w=1280&h=720]

Update on the upcoming e-Book

My trip through the Philippines will be coming to a close soon — at least in this journal.  And I wanted to let you know that there is more to look forward to in the coming week.

Along with the upcoming journals from my travels throughout the islands of Taiwan, I will also be releasing the various parts of my next film, Travel Geek: Documentary Taiwan — just as I have here in the Philippines section of the blog.  However, before I get on to that, I wanted to announce another very special treat — for the readers of this blog and for me as well.

After the final day that the last of the Philippines journals are published, I will be releasing my new book, Postcards from the Pavement: Southeast Asia, the book that follows my Southeast Asian travels all the way through to the beginning of this blog.  So if you ever wanted to enjoy the entire ride and read about all the places that I have visited since moving to Asia — and all in one sitting — this is the book for you.

Publishing a book is not easy business.  But the process has been made much easier in recent years by the free market competition against the Big Six publishers.  And in even more recent years, the big wholesalers like Barnes & Noble and Amazon have even come into competition of their own.  The ePub market has exploded with independent writers like myself.  And we’ve created such a demand for easy publishing, that the response has been overwhelming.

But before the book gets its ISBN and goes on the bigger distribution websites, I wanted to offer it here to my subscribers first.

This book — released here in PDF so anyone can read it without the eReader, Nook, Kindle, etc. — comes with fully interactive links to videos hosted on the site.  So as long as you’re near an internet connection, you can watch the videos right from the book!

It’s also completely collated with jump-to-chapter and jump-to-page links and search options.  You can even highlight, mark, bubble-text and page-save just as in the latest PDF options!

What’s more, I have added scores of new photos that aren’t offered on my blog or on my photography website.  So when you get the copy of the book, you will literally have a collection of my photographic works that aren’t available anywhere else on the web!

There are nearly 1000 external reference links in the book as well.  So you’re guaranteed to get everything that I have online, plus all the additional content that is only available in the book.

But probably the best part is that, because it’s available for download right to your computer, you can print off an entire copy for yourself, buy one and print it to give away as a gift, or just pick and choose which photos you would like to print and hang them as a memento from the last few years and many thousands of miles we’ve spent together.

When you buy the book, you can also be sure that no big corporations or production companies will benefit in any way.  They have enough money already.  This money will go right back into the blog.  There’s something big that I have planned, but up until now, I haven’t been able to talk about it.

But, since we’re already talking about it; I plan on a monumental trip in the fall of this year, including a documentary filming excursion that will cover ALL ELEVEN COUNTRIES IN SOUTHEAST ASIA!  So the funds gathered by this book will be given right back to you in all the films, photos and journals that will be created throughout that trip.

It’s a very exciting time for me.  I am one of the few media professionals that is completely online.  Of course, if you want hard copies, those can be created.  I only print books and photographs from my commercial website, cyleodonnell.com, when orders come in.  So there is no paper waste, no stockpile of cardboard and plastic packaging sitting around in a warehouse somewhere, no chemicals from printing — nothing but my green books, blogs, images and articles.  Even my website is hosted with iPage, a company whose servers run from wind-generated power!

I am setting the cost of the book at just $4.99 — and only for the readers of this blog — because I want everyone to be able to afford one.  The later release on the ePub giants will cost more because they take a cut right off the top.  So you get the cheapest rate, the freedom to print off the book and you get it BEFORE anyone at Amazon or Smashwords even see it!

And if you’re a friend on my private Facebook page who enlisted in the recent event to sign up for the blog,  don’t worry I will be announcing the free password on that event to get your copy as soon as I release the book later this week.  I haven’t forgotten about you guys!

But having said that, I can honestly say that I need subscribers more than I need the money.  So if you’re reading this and can think of a handful of people who might enjoy my blogs and photography, I will give you something too:  If you can get five (5) people to subscribe to this blog, and they send me an email verifying that you got them to sign up, I will send you a free copy of the book as well.  But it’s gotta be pretty fast because the offer ends as soon as the ISBN is assigned and it’s published in the commercial market.  (that email is cyle@cyleodonnell.com)

Remember, this is just the first book in a series of many more to come.  In fact, before the end of next month I plan on having released more than 50 short stories — all within the collection of stories from the Mishaps in Motion series, which includes this upcoming book, Postcards from the Pavement: Southeast Asia.  

Watch the video below, and see what I have planned for the future.

Until then, enjoy the last journals from the Philippines!
[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poAecxtbp3o]

All-Time High! Thanks everyone for my 50th 'Like' on the blog.

Hi everyone.  I wanted to send out a very special THANK YOU for your support in recent days.  Enough people went on and checked out my blogs and thought enough of it to show their support by clicking the ‘Like’ button more than 50 TIMES!!  My current total now sits at 52.  To give you a reference on this, I only have less than 47 journals on travel.  And because I have been adding more to the blog lately, I think that’s a great motivator to keep branching out and creating more interesting content.

Maybe now I might get nominated for one of WordPress’ coveted blogger awards…  [fingers crossed]

Thanks to everyone who came on and read the blog.  You can be sure that I will be keeping up the hard work to bring you the best in travel photojournalism diligence.

New Photos from the Philippines, 2nd album

Okay, so here is the second album of recently edited photos.  This is the rough draft editing stage of the photos.  The final drafts will be edited all together in a batch process and then uploaded to the commercial website.  So you’re getting the sneak preview before the photography page gets updated.

In this album, the elderly people taken in HDR are from the hill tribes living in the mountains.  The beautiful lady trying to hide her face from the camera was so shy that her friends made her take the photograph.  She very reluctantly and uncomfortably sat as I snapped these shots of her.  I gave her a warm thanks and a fist full of cash afterward.  And they wounldn’t let me leave without getting a shot of the tattoos that she acquired in her time in the hills.  The tribes people decorated themselves back then and are strangely embarrassed of it now.  The older gentleman sat proudly and let me take this shot even though the youngsters around him were laughing and pointing.  He seemed not to mind.

Be sure to click the images and make them larger.  The detail that comes out in HDR when you’re looking at the larger image reveals much more detail than a thumbnail.  Tremendous range is exposed in this technique of photography — which is responsible for giving the photos that “dreamy” feel to them.  The mountain shots have so much old-worldy feel to them in these shots.  There are many more that will make it to the commercial site, but these will have to do to start.

Take a look and be sure to leave me comments on what you think!

journal 41: Hong Kong and the 16-story Chungking Mansion

Hong Kong is a massive rush for any first-timer.  It’s even more so at any time during rush-hour.  It was amazing when I found a street, like the one above, that wasn’t completely packed with foot traffic.

Laborers throwing bags of rice from a truck; rich folk chatting away on their Blackberries; book-reading, iPod-flicking zombies pausing just inches before bumping into passersby as they come barreling into their shallow field of vision.  It’s a maze of trollies, Mercedes, buses, overhead walkways and cryptic alleys selling everything from pantyhose to Christmas lights.  And amid all this, surprisingly no other photographers.

For this trip, I made a special effort to work a my new style of photography that I have been wanting to integrate into my repertoire.  And it requires a tripod with a nice head and the ability to hold at least 8Kg of camera body and lens attachments.  So there I was, mid-sidewalk, setup and ready to shoot as the sea of people flowed around me, and I got the sense, for the first time while traveling, that I was no longer worried of being the victim of any type of robbery.

I know that sounds strange, but I am constantly on the lookout for quick hands, have an ever-present eye on my bag and know where all my camera gear is at all times.  But I suppose I took more comfort than usual in the massive swell of bodies in motion all around me.  I wouldn’t have been able to chase anyone down, shout at someone or for help or have much chance of even knowing if I was actually the victim of pick-pocketing.  But I was at ease nonetheless.

I guess that feeling came mostly because I was a point of attraction in the street.  So all the eyes peering in my direction acted as a web of security for anyone ballsy enough to approach and steal something from me.  It would probably be the equivalent of walking onto a stage in the middle of a ballet and trying to steal a tutu.  It was pretty refreshing, actually.  After all, this is no small city; and indeed no city which was unfamiliar with crime of all kinds.

But before I start a tangent, I want to discuss some items that will be shortly upcoming for this blog, blog #41, the content of future blogs and the big plans that I have for the future of the blog in general.  

For this blog, I’d like to introduce a new technique that I have been interested in since my Korea trip.  I wanted to do more of it on that trip, but I limited it mostly to gathering a style, hammering in the technique and then working on solid post-production.  This new technique is called High Dymanic Range photography, or HDR for short.

This type of photography consists of creating several frames of the same image at different exposures and capitalizing on their ability to draw from different gradients of light to maximize the feel of “being there,” visually speaking.  As you’re standing in a place, your eyes do a much better job of analyzing light as it truly appears.  The problem that cameras innately have, is that they can expose for only one temperature of light at a time.  This can be manipulated with the use of filters, multiple masking layers in editing and of course the software itself has, to some extent, the ability to draw out the other underexposed areas.

But when a camera can bracket several exposures almost simultaneously, it makes the work of getting the right all-around exposure pretty easy business.  And with new technology, powerful thinking by photographic creatives and lots of financial backing, software has come about that makes that process much easier.  But while HDR not only increases the amount of time needed to dedicate for still images on location, but adds a step in an already very tedious production process for large catalogs of images (that ultimately I have to deal with after every trip), it is much more rewarding once the final product is in.  The image at the top of this blog is the exact result of what I am describing here.  It is the way light hits the eyes naturally, exposing the under-eve locations of the scene just as would your eye’s quick and long-adapted ability to do so.

This image is another one of my favorites from the Hong Kong Collection.

This dramatic lighting comes from the multiple exposures that were created during a series of high-speed, continuous shooting that my Nikon has the ability to do, freezing the action sequence in a way that makes it possible to layer several different exposures into a single image.

But more about that later.  Another part of the plans that I have for this blog is the addition of two very exciting things.  I will be adding a discussion section of the newest gear that I am interested in like photographic equipment, travel guides and equipment, books, different websites that I keep up with and lots more to make things interesting.  And the other point that I am excited to be bringing to the blog is a photography contest!

I will be hosting a new photo contest each month with prizes for first and second place.  And lots of cool extras for participants.  But since this blog can’t handle that kind of memory (or won’t, really), I have opened up a new website that I will be announcing shortly.  There are some really great things afoot, so be sure to stay tuned for the latest on what’s happening.

And as for the blog that will be carried over to the new site, I want to also introduce new features that I have wanted to implement and that I think will really be good for the site (and that you will enjoy seeing).  Firstly, I plan on putting up lots of videos.  I liked seeing them in other blogs that I subscribe to and I have regretted not putting more emphasis on that here.  Travel videos, tutorials, discussions on the latest gear that’s out there are all going to be part of my upcoming videos.

Secondly, I will also have a member’s area where you can log on, post links to your site, get your photos seen, link to your twitter account or Facebook and even start discussions of what interests you in the worlds of travel, writing and photography.

I want to form a community where I, and others, can come and keep up with others out there traveling, writing and doing what they love (and all those who live vicariously through them).  But I will be discussing that more in upcoming blogs.  For now, though, I have the great Hong Kong to blog about.  Don’t worry, I will be talking about my newest favorite gear in this blog as well.

Lastly, I have several books slated to be published next year and, as well as portraits and landscapes, I will be hosting them on this and my photography site.  I will give some of them away as prizes and will also host books by other authors like me trying to gain more exposure.  I will, of course, be doing this overseas, so you’ll have to be willing to wait a few weeks for delivery if you’re the lucky winner.  But I will get you your prizes, I promise.

But I don’t want to stray too far from the norm of the blog just yet.  So in light of the mention of my interest in discussing books, I wanted to point out one that I purchased while I was in Hong Kong.  It’s a great read and it’s written by Gordon Matthews, a professor of anthropology at the Chinese University of Hong Kong, who’s taken a really interesting avenue for his research.  He’s stayed at least one night at the Chungking Mansions each week for the three years preceding this book (and I am willing to bet, a few more).  In his book, Ghetto at the Center of the World, he describes the Chungking Mansion as a dilapidated, 16-story commercial and residential structure in the heart of Hong Kong’s tourist district.  It’s home to a remarkably motley group of people including traders, laborers, asylum seekers, drug dealers, prostitutes  and even foreign workers who return home once every few months.

Of course, I stayed there as well.  And I have to say, the research alone that went into this book had to be pretty entertaining.  Every night there was some really amazing activities afoot right outside the gates.  The on-duty security guards mostly laughed along with the residents at what was happening.  But I didn’t feel unsafe (mostly) while I was there.

I can say, though, that this little building that would be boarded up and locked down for fear of collapse in many other countries, was a truly amazing oddity to be sandwiched amid the looming towers in the multinational headquarters of the world’s financial mecca.  Multinational corporations and global companies might barely even lift a proverbial eye brow in its direction.  But this dusty edifice probably had more character attraction on one floor than several of its goliath neighbors put together.

Anyway, it’s a great read if you get the chance to pick it up.  But what better way to paint a picture of my experience in Hong Kong.  It was really great.  And the people were something unexpected, too.

As far as the city goes, from the cobbles in the alleyways to the marble floors at Starbucks, this, like many other huge, Asian cities, was basically a huge shopping mall.  But the people were what made it surprising.  Mostly they kept to themselves.  But when bumped into (which was a rare occurrence indeed) there was always a hand wave and an apologetic look which was normally followed by an “excuse me.”  And that reminds me, everyone speaks English in Hong Kong.  So if you’re on your way there, you don’t have to worry about brushing up on your Cantonese first.  But while you might not want to carry all those extra pieces of luggage through this unforgiving maze of concrete, you may want to overpack your wallet.  This place is EX-PENS-IVE.  And by no means should you take that lightly.  You will go through more money here than most other places you’ll go.  Make no mistake about that.

Not only is the exchange rate very difficult to quickly calculate mentally, it’s also difficult to bargain with people here because they’re so used to catering to so many currencies that they will try and work into other denominations to make it sound like a better deal.  Talk about a headache.  My calculator was the first thing to materialize when I approached any booth, table or counter — long before the money came out.

The trip wasn’t that long, really.  All I had to do was get my residence visa worked out for Taiwan and check into my Myanmar tourist visa for my next visit there early next year.  So the rest of the time was spent in book stores, checking out the sites, photographing amazing street action and, oh yeah, the best part: sailing through Victoria Harbor and Kowloon Bay.  I have wanted to do that for so long.

Downsides to HK: if you’re not used to walking on inclined planes, you’ll be dead within hours of arriving.  That, or you’ll simply never get anything done.  Walking is everything.  And everything is slanted vertically.  So start your hikes early in preparation for a visit.

Upside, you can get anything you want here (and I mean that literally).  And for being in Asia for the last three years, it’s nice to get an American cheeseburger and fries with real pickles and real ketchup/mayo and all the trimmings.  Quite enjoyable.

Don’t forget to drop by the website, cyleodonnell.com, and check out the new Hong Kong gallery.

Until next time, happy trails!

Journal 38: Day 13: A dodgy, little love motel on my last day in the Korean Peninsula

So it’s my last night here in Korea.  I decided to leave Jeju and come to Incheon where, I once thought, the city’s Chinatown held new opportunities for some great market photographs or architecture.  I was, I guess, hoping for some Chinese temples where I could snap a few shots of the animals cresting their eves or a dragon greeting me at the entrance.  Maybe I was expecting lots of commotion as bustling streets flowed with people moving goods and foodstuffs around with a sense of navigation that westerners can only stand back and gawk at.  Or perhaps I was hoping for some food that swelled with the heat that comes off it, food that you don’t have to crack open or cook yourself.

Alas, there was nothing.  Or perhaps I should say, there was nothing worth taking photos of.  Drab and somber, the entire area looked more like it was the outskirts of something much more interesting.  Its grimy streets and heavy overcast gave it a feel of old timey poverty just before a dustbowl was set to come in and put to rest any fleeting images of holding on to the last few drumbeats of an economic heartbeat.  It seemed like this was the place that was bashed with North Korean gunfire back in 2010.  But even that place was not far from here.  Only about 30 kilometers or so.

At any rate, I followed what I thought were Lonely Planet’s directions for a motel near the subway that I would take in the morning to get to the airport.  But after walking way too far with all my gear, I finally just used my visual knowledge of reading Korean signage and found a motel across the street from a pizza joint and down the block from a subway entrance and called it a night.  These two landmarks represented what my will had been ground down to; food and the quickest way to exit this country.  I’m certainly not regretting my time here.  It just seems like, now that the end is right around the corner, I may as well get it over with.

Anyway, apparently in my learning of Korean advertisements, I could read enough to know that the sign said “motel.”  But clearly I hadn’t learned what the text for “love” was.  When I checked in, I thought that it was odd that they owners didn’t give me a key to my room.  They also kept asking me in Korean if it was going to be just me in the room.  I kept saying that I, alone, was going to be sleeping and needed a key to protect my valuables.  But they were simply not happy with my response.

Before I go on, I think it would be better if I explained just what a “love motel” and its purpose is.  Now, normally one would simply think, ‘Oh, well it’s obviously a cathouse and there’s nothing more to think about it.’  But, like most other things here in Asia, it has a deeper meaning and purpose.  And, make no mistake, its meaning and purpose follow lines to a source that hold no bearing on whether or not the western world would approve or even understand that logic.

A love motel can be rented by the night or by the hour.  A man can get a room alone, wake up with a woman and never feel shame from the owners as he’s checking out.  The owners of these establishments generally offer a woman to single men checking in and can suggest a man for the single ladies.  A love motel is a place most often occupied by actual couples.  But it can also be used as a discrete meeting place for strangers.

In America, it undoubtedly seems a little strange that a couple would check into a hotel for one night – or even a few hours.  It might also come off as odd that the owners might have some say in the eventuality in the population of each room’s occupancy.  It may also come as a huge shock that these motels have resident “lovers” who, from birth, have lived there to pay off their parent’s debt as sex slaves.  But then again, there are many things that Americans will never understand about what goes on in this strange corner of the world.

As the tradition goes in most parts of Asia, it is expected that the children, once married, move into the house of the husband’s parents.  It’s also expected that the wife becomes, for lack of a more polite description, a slave to the parents – fulfilling chores, errands and other demands.  Keeping in good with a family that demands strict adherence to a very conservative lifestyle, then, becomes an everyday challenge.  Sex, therefore, is a bit of an uncomfortable item which brings a lot of stress to the already difficult nature of a new marriage.

Love motels sprang up out of the resulting need for privacy in these new relationships in the turning of the world’s traditional ways.  These motels were first used as places for dating couples to spend anything from a few days of relaxation to just a quick visit between their busy lives.  From there, of course, the Asian culture of why-can’t-we-have-everything-we-want came into play and they started to gain popularity for other types of visits.  And as for the lifetime resident lovers; well, that was a tradition long preceding the invention of the love motel.

For thousands of years the ideals of Buddhism played into the perpetual cycle of reincarnation and parents thought once their daughters were born when they were expecting a boy, it was their karma giving them the requirement of payment for their ills in previous lives.  So giving up their daughters as payment for this karma was the right thing to do.  Their daughters, in turn, were taught their life of sexual servitude was them paying off their karma as well – otherwise, why would they have been born as the payment of their parent’s karma?

It makes a lot more sense once you have been living in Asia for a while and can understand the mentality of all the intricacies of what goes along with the absolute and unquestioning belief in rebirth.

So there I was, being probed by the owners of this motel and the lady starts moving her hands through her hair.  I had no idea what this meant until some time later.  But once she was satisfied – though not very pleased – knowing that I would be staying one night, alone and not be in need of anything “else” from them, she came up with her price and charged me for the room.

Once checked in, I dug out some cash and went across the street to the pizza place for edible, non-seafood that I didn’t have to break the shells off of or barbecue myself.  On the way, though, I kept wondering what the lady meant when she was combing her hands through her hair.  And it eventually came to me.  She was asking me if I wanted a woman for the night.  Then all the other mannerisms came into understanding as well.

The couple were upset that I didn’t want a woman because they could charge me more for the room.  They were displeased that I would only make them money on the room when, ultimately, this was not the kind of place where they only charge for the room.  This also explained the delay in coming up with a price for the room – essentially an overcharge.  And they didn’t give me a key because they wanted me to ask them for the key every time I wanted to enter the room because they didn’t want me hiring a woman from the street or from the little paper advertisements I would see taped up to the underside of steps throughout the alleyways all over the city.  That was the competition.  And for these elderly, Asian pimps, that’s just not the kind of place they run.

Since having been back in Taiwan, I have done more research into this and have talked to natives who indicate the benefit of short-term motels is much greater than having to put up with the prying eyes and ears of older, more traditional parents who would just as soon have their daughter-in-laws doing back-breaking work than to spend their nights corrupting their respectable son’s sensibilities.  They also confirmed that the majority of the love motel’s use was limited to these situations rather than for the sex-shops they’d more easily become reputed as being.

Nevertheless, my last night in Korea did little more to put me at ease but ultimately summed up all my experiences in that amazing country.  No matter where you go in Korea, you’re sure to find yourself in one inextricably unique situation after another as you navigate the intricate web of peculiarities of everything from traditional Hanok Villages kept in the old ways complete with dances to entice the soil’s richness, to parks dedicated to phallic splendor.

Stay tuned for my last blog on my Korea trip and a toast for things to come.

Southeast Asia Journal 17: April 11, 2010

Journal April 11, 2010

Trash lines the streets everywhere in Cambodia -- all the way up to the Vietnam border

Since the late 1400’s, Cambodia has had quite a bad taste for the Thai people.  That’s about when they were overrun by the Kingdom of Thailand and forced to give over many of their national treasures.  However, there is a pretty bustling trade agreement, and since Thai Airways has been paying a sizeable, yearly bribe to the government-owned transportation department of Cambodia in an effort to keep air travel at an appealing plateau, the economy has a reasonable chance of making a turn for the better here.  But you’d never know it if you did ask.

Cambodia is quite literally the poorest and most desolate country I have ever seen.  I haven’t even seen commercials that try and guilt the 72-cents-per-day out of your pockets that even come close to what happens here.  I saw a man digging through the open sewage to find salable items.  Talk about a shit job!  Puns like “scraping at the bottom of the barrel,” and “don’t have a pot to piss in,” grip with an entirely new hold around here.

But all of this still doesn’t stop the impressive size that the magnitude of Angkor drenches over you once you get to the outskirts of Siem Reap.  Of course the sweat does an impressive job of drenching you also.  There is simply no escaping the deviant sun that seems to linger at such an angle as to always be right in your face no matter which direction your face happens to be (facing, angled, directed?  Which word do I use here that I haven’t already used in the previous sentence?)

After seeing the Tonle Sap people (river dwellers), the temples at Angkor, the craziest of crazy capitols, Phnom Phen I was finally headed over into Vietnam.

The border from Cambodia to Vietnam was my last reminder of the poverty there.  There were several markets that marked the customary symbol of

That's using your head

trade in the tiny nation.  There was all the buzz and commotion I have come to expect in the country.  There were some amazing things to be seen – most just sad and depressing, but amazing nonetheless.  Ladies were carrying baskets of fish and vegetables, snacks and fruits and many other things on their heads.  I liked seeing that throughout my time in Cambodia.  There were also people moving their things from place to place on whatever vehicles they had available to them at that particular time.  Most people chose a motorbike with a trailer.  But there was the occasional loaded-down bicycle or even hand-pulled carts.  Many people

Moving is hard to do

were just bringing things to the market at the border – the spot that marks the last chance to get cheapish Cambodian goods – before heading over into Vietnam.  Or I suppose it could also have been the first place that people could purchase goods once in the country from Vietnam.  In either case, it was good to have left it behind me for the better economy of the country that holds the longest coastline with the South China Sea.

Once in Vietnam (thankfully) I was surprised to see the sheer congestion of this place.  I was told that it was busy.  But I wasn’t told it would be elbow to elbow on motorcycles!  This is just madness.  But, even with all these people sweeping through the traffic in all directions, they seem to miss one another and glide right past as if it were orchestrated in some grand ballet on some  enormous

Packed to the brim

stage with an even bigger set.  Quite a production, indeed.

There are no close calls here, just normal driving conditions.  And through all of this, there are still pedestrians, bicycles, people pushing carts and people carrying bamboo sticks with baskets on each end.  I haven’t even seen so much as a dog get hit while running into the street.  It’s quite an amazing thing to watch.

Crazy traffic in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

And the horns: they have created their own form of communication here with the use of their horns.  But more about this in my next journal.  I am curious as to the honking patterns that I have noticed and I will keep an “ear” out for more information on this.

When I got on the bus in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, it was a dry, dusty place with lots of people and little recent infrastructure.  But when I exited the bus in Ho Chi Minh City (the former Saigon) I stepped out into a bustling, flashing,

Big, ugly dance bars line the streets and corners of Saigon

overpowering energy that is dizzying to the unprepared.  There are skyscrapers, huge walls of blocks upon blocks of lights, music and karaoke bars.  There are side shops with everything you could ever need.  From auto mechanics and restaurants to hotels and clothing depots – and they all squeeze their businesses into these shotgun-style buildings over-top of which they most likely live.  The businesses are generally run and managed by the family that lives in the establishment and I can’t figure out if it is because these people are very mistrusting of others or they just like to keep things simple – and save money.  But whatever the case, it is true that competition drives the market here.  If you don’t like what you see or the price of your item in one shop, there is another one just like it half a block down who may be willing to haggle a bit.

Mikoh, the Finish drooler

A note about the bus, though; this Finish guy name Mikoh took about five Xanax before the trip and passed out right in my lap.  There was no waking him up.  At several points during the trip, the bus driver slammed on his breaks sending Mikoh crashing face-first into the seat in front of him.  It quickly became the highlight of entertainment of those of us seated near the front of the bus… until he started drooling on me.  Then I had to grab him by the hair and pull him up.  Luckily, he tells me, he didn’t remember any of it.   He may have boasted of visiting five dozen countries or so, but his bus presence could still use a little work.

Rice workers slaved away in the fields along the roadside

All drool-pools aside, the trip was quite lovely.  We headed through some of nicest rural areas that I have yet seen on this trip.  We would pass rice fields; workers doing their morning planting and harvesting; far stretches of green floral symmetry would pass alongside the bus for miles; then there would be a flooded patch where bison would be feeding.  I could look out at almost any time and see the South China Sea to the east as the sun climbed into the sky overhead.  Along the banks and floodplains of rivers making their exits in mostly brackish, alluvial drain-pools leading into the ocean, there would be boat workers fishing and taking in the morning catches.  There was one man I saw in the distance using a long pipe as a boat from which to throw his nets into the water.  There would also be these strange nets suspended just above the water along the

Using a hollow tube, this fisherman sought the day's catch

ponds to the west side of the roadway.  I couldn’t figure out of they used these nets to store their fish until it was time to harvest them or to grow prawn or spawn other fish or something.  In either case, it was a nice addition to the long pastures and wavy fields of foliage and farmland.

Finally arriving in Hoi An, I didn’t really see much that I liked.  It looked a lot like a miniature version of Saigon.  So I decided to take the next trip on my open bus ticket to Hue (pronounced “Hway”).  There I found a much more agreeable and photogenic setting.

Though it’s been getting cooler and cooler the farther north I travel, I have still heard that the heat is coming to this side of the world to head up the summer season.  And since I have been sweating non-stop for about six months now, I welcomed the cooler climes.  I even figured I would take a dip.  The nearest body of water: the South China Sea.  It was nice.  And I had this theory about the global oceanic currents.  I thought that I read once that the colder one climbs northward along the Pacific Asian coastlines, rising to the benthic plateau from the bitter waters of the abyssal plane (characteristic of this coastline) and drawing with it cooler waters that would eventually meet up with the Arctic waters around Alaska.  I am not sure if I am completely correct on this note, but the water was the coolest, cleanest and most refreshing water I have felt since I left for Asia in December.  It was definitely a welcomed and refreshing treat.

But for that story, you will have to wait for the next journal.  I will be writing about my trip from Hue to Hanoi by Friday.  I should have plenty of new insights and photos to share by then.  Plus, I will finally be able to take care of the next big priority on my photography agenda: The Hill Tribes of Sapa.