Journal 45: Philippines Days Four and five
Ifugao:
See the rest of the photos from the Philippines at cyleodonnell.com
Moving onto the mountains, Ifugao was my next destination. Highlights abound on this leg of the trip. I wanted to see the hanging coffins of Echo Valley, the tall, majestic waterfall past the ancient Fidalisan Village and of course the ancient rice terraces.
I have seen many terraced farming fields before in places like Northern Vietnam, Laos, Malaysia and throughout some areas in Korea and Taiwan. In full season, the fields can take on an otherworldly pallet of colors and, depending on the perspective and the backdrop of the sun at the time of witnessing them, they can make the intricate lines of a valley appear to carve out the steps the gods take to travel to their resting place – or something equally mysterious and grandiose.
But these fields were said to be the best terraces in all of Southeast Asia because of their expanse and their meaning in the ancient world. I suppose I’d find out in a couple days.
To see the rest of the photos from the Philippines, go to cyleodonnell.com
My first stop was a little town called Baguio. It was just a quick stopover as I would almost immediately catch another jeep into the higher reaches of the mountains. But it’s worth mentioning because it’s the carving capital of the Philippines. Well, that and the fact that I had a great conversation with a lady who sold beetlenut to the locals.
So beetlenut is a small, fibrous bud that comes from within the fruit of a palm-like tree. Beetlenut by itself isn’t really all that stimulating. It’s basically got the consistency of chewing on a pine bud or pre-pinecone sprout. And it’s not all that organic tasting either. But if you never spat the juices out on the ground, you’d never really get the feeling that this little bud really has an odd chemical reaction in your mouth.
The punch comes when you add two other ingredients. First, you add tobacco and wait for that to get into the blood stream. Then you squeeze in a packet of mustard. And the combination of all the various substances forces into the blood, a very amphetamine-like buzz. It’s effects are fleeting — only 20 minutes or so — but the process can be repeated over and over with the same effect.
Basically, it’s become this ritual for the men in the area, more than a drug or addiction. However, the addictive qualities of this substance are not to be questioned. Almost all men do it. And if the stained red mouths full of quickly decaying teeth didn’t give it away, the huge, snot-covered, crimson spatters all along the roadway will. All told, it’s probably one of the most disgusting pastimes I’ve seen in Southeast Asia. And I have seen a lot of them.
But that didn’t take away from the “carving capital” aspect of the place. Huge trunks and split logs almost completely line the roadway up to the town and even a little after, awaiting their artisan’s shaping hands to come and craft them into something appreciable by human standards.
The town itself has an easy, laid back feel to it. Shops line the three corners of the central part of town and they supply the entire outlying area with goods and food. But what I liked the most was that the backs of most of the shops had restaurants hanging about a mile above the huge, mountain drop-offs below. The people are very curious of travelers, walking up to talk and waving at you from passing vehicles. And this also adds to the demeanor of the place.
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From there it’s only a short wait until another jeep is full of people and items are piled high on the roof. My jeep started rumbling up the mountain at about noon and I arrived at my next destination, Banahue. by 6 p.m.
Banahue is another one of those towns where things are a little slower, not necessarily finding any reason to rush around. And over every mountainside guardrail there’s a vista of the most amazing terraces chiseled into the valley below.
It was Banahue, too, where I got the full grasp of the risk people take in traveling through this area. The mountains in this area were simply not equipped with the soils befitting of support for the roads being plied through them. As in several locations I could very easily see the next pass the jeep was headed over, there would be a huge empty space where the mountainside used to be underneath the 4-inch-thick concrete pathway for the passing vehicles. This, of course, was precariously replaced by a few rickety beams used as temporary replacements for the moment’s pause until the seasonal construction crew could come out and lay concrete underworking to the roads damage.
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Passing over these dodgy turns was shifty business at best, and, as I thought many times, likely to be my last time passing over anything at all on this planet. It made me wonder if the last vessel of people to have toppled to their deaths during one of these trips was filled with people who may have been thinking the same things I was thinking – anticipating their own demise just moments before it was sure to take place…
In Banahue, I moseyed around and went to the little tourist-based shops and bought a couple masks and a native fighting stick and even a couple little bags to keep my batteries in. And when I walked back across the lazy road I snapped this shot of local life in a typical shop in this area. The peacefulness of the mountains seemed to echo its own voice back into the culture that exists here. In fact, a lot of the mountains’ characteristics are played out in traditional life, I thought. It was the nice, cool climate that I had been seeking since my retreat from the heat and bustle down in the towns of southern Luzon.
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Below is a part three of the six-part documentary film, Travel Geek: Documentary Philippines (be sure to subscribe to my channel). It covers much more than this journal. But since I’ve already made the video, I might as well put part one of the six-part series in here to add some reference:
[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEVWwTJMXcw]
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Author Spotlight: Lian Hearn
In his Japanese warrior trilogy, The Tales of the Otori, Lian Hearn dives into a gripping account of deep love, gritty warfare, mystical powers and hardened betrayal. And he does so with the poetic prose of master writers.
The thing that I have come to appreciate the most about his writing is that the depictions of the ancient tales are woven around a latticework of what most readily appears to the western reader as a very identifiable and believable historicity that may very well have existed in the hand-me-down legends that pass through the virtual gateways of Japanese myth. Seeing how these myths, then, play out in a western authorship, makes his books take on that very mysticism on which he bases his themes. And that certainly goes for his style as well.
Just as in his characters’ level of patience and poise, he writes in a way that sells his scene with obvious, painstaking precision.
To say that he wrote a “trilogy,” though, isn’t quite true. The trilogy exists and is certainly worth the read. But he has also gone in and written a prequel and a sequel that gives a two-fold capstone to the series.
The first in the trilogy is called Across the Nightingale Floor, and talks about the young master who, unbeknownst to him, is the last in a long line of mystical tribesmen. He’s trained at an art which he will later use to shroud his real powers — all the while honing them to become invisible, move with phantom-like fluidity and scale impossible climbs.
My review will end with this book, but I discuss more in the video. And I don’t want to give the rest away, but you can feel free to find out more about his other books at these links:
The video review is below:
[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eu5oXU-VzIM]
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Journal 44: Philippines Days Three and Four
After Pinatubo, I headed farther north into the western peninsula of Luzon. Hundred Islands National Park was next on the agenda.
As I rolled into Alaminos, on the long bus, I hadn’t realized how much time had gone by. But that last leg took me almost six hours. I just spent most of the time snapping photos at passers by and trying to scribble a few words into my journal as the bus bounced roadward.
Getting into Alaminos doesn’t mean you’ve made it to the park, however. Once there, you still have to pay a tricycle to drive you the rest of the 7km distance to the coast. The price isn’t that bad (only about $2), because the driver probably will have a brother or cousin who owns a hotel, restaurant or boat. Good people to know.
Hundred Islands National Park:
Probably the thing I liked the most about the Hundred Islands National park was area surrounding it. Staying in Alaminos and Lucap was sort of what I was hoping to see since I got to the Philippines. The slower pace of life, the small town feel and the quiet streets that, once you wake up, you’re happy to have had the night before.
The place I stayed at was a reasonably large place that had recently been built by a small family. I couldn’t tell if the husband was a perpetual drunk, because it was Christmas Eve when I arrived. To be fair, both towns were equally stocked with drunkards, I suppose. So perhaps I was being a bit harsh on the old man. But it was his reliability as a boat captain what I was more unsure of. Because the next day I’d signed up to have him drive me out into the park.
I approached to set up a time to leave to the park the next day and it felt like he’d thrown up an entire bottle of malt liqueur within five minutes of our meeting. But as I had begun to find out, there were many people who could captain the rickety little vessels passing as the latest influence for the aquatic tourist conveyor belt out to the islands. So if he fell through, I was pretty sure I’d be okay.
And that turned out to be the case as I wound up snatching up a younger, more sober looking driver at the entry to the pier.
Being as it was the morning time and I had arrived to the crumbling docks in time for the sunrise, I thought I’d snap a few photos. They became some of the best shots I’d made yet on this trip. So I was happy that I went out early.
Being the first national park that resided in the ocean that I have ever seen, I thought that this was one was particularly special. The islands themselves were interesting. But they weren’t mindblowing – as played out in the advertising all along the coast.
Shaped like the average blooming mushroom, these islands display a headdress of green foliage under a short canopy of failing coastline. They are also very close to one another in proximity. So there are lots of shallow pools, swimming areas, neat beaches and what is left of the coral that was swept nearly away from the latest wave of seasonal typhoons and covered by annual sediment brought in by lahar flows.
I don’t want to give the impression that I wasn’t impressed and didn’t enjoy the trip. But if they were a little less dramaticized before you got there, they might seek less awe and find more of it in the people that gaze upon these eroding structures. Nevertheless, among the two packages (a half day [3 hours] and a full day [can include an novernight stay on Governor’s Island]), I opted for the short tour.
But I was no less excited about the day in the islands. The driver took us out to little coves and swimmable spots. There was this great little island that had all sorts of little pagoda-looking huts that appeared to have lived through many a noisy party echoing through the inlet. And probably my favorite part of the trip was… well, the trip. I guess I mean that literally.
When we arrived at the last island, there were lots of people swimming in the crystal clear waters at the south-facing beach. And I was happily prancing along watching them when I stubbed my toe on this enormous shell jutting up through the sand. I definitely broke my toe and I was down for a ten-count. But once I was back up and snapping away, I found this great little oyster bed that had been “salvaged” by the last heavy weather that had come through and torn up the coral bottoms. 
I crept out into the sectioned off nursery and snapped a few photos of these giant oysters. They must have been two feet across. They were bright blue and green and seemed to change color under the shifting light of the cloud-strewn sky. It was a great additive to the trip. But after that, I headed back for the trenches.
Today, it was off for Banahue and Bontoc on my way to seek out the home of the native headhunters of Ifugao. That trip would prove to be exciting and full of great views. I would spend the first half on top of one vehicle and the other half hanging out the rear door of another. But you’ll have to wait for the next journal to see photos and read about that.
And speaking of photos, be sure to stop by cyleodonnell.com for the photos from the whole Philippines trip.
Below is a part two of the six-part documentary film, Travel Geek: Documentary Philippines (be sure to subscribe to my channel). It covers much more than this journal. But since I’ve already made the video, I might as well put part one of the six-part series in here to add some reference:
[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_NFWWaw-u4]
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Author Spotlight: Aung San Suu Kyi
Along with her book, Letters from Burma, I also recommend her book, Freedom From Fear. Both were written while she was under house arrest at her Inya Lake residence in Myanmar. When released in 2009, she instantly became one of the front runners in the political movement in which she was involved before her incarceration 15 years before.
In Letters from Burma, which is a collection of two-page notes, she talks about everything from her visitation rights to and from her loved ones and supporters, to the folly involved in releasing pigeons outside her house. And in the moments where she’s found writing about the smaller, less static times of her manifold hours alone, her poetic writing never trails too far from the undercurrent of strife that she is faced with in her life.
Truly an inspiring woman through her strength, dedication and passion for non-violent resolutions in a country run by anything but peaceful leaders, her book, Letters From Burma, shouldn’t inspire women. It should inspire EVERYONE.
Below is my video review on her book and her time as the leading face of the peaceful movement in a land of tyranny.
[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhkOiI2vrts]
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Author Spotlight: On Gordon Mathews
Today’s Author Spotlight from the Travel Geek, is Gordon Mathews. He wrote a book called Ghetto at the Center of the World. This book really appealed to me since I bought it while I was staying at the Chunking Mansion — the location the book discusses. It’s an odd place, that’s for sure. But nowhere near as odd as it becomes in Mathew’s world.
He’s a professor at Hong Kong University and has studied the place by staying at a room there (I think I read) at least once a week for three years preceding the book’s release — and presumably even longer. And while I don’t want to spoil it for you, I also don’t want you not knowing what an amazingly telling non-fiction this book really is.
From interviews with sex workers to anonymous inspirations from heroine traffickers, Mathews really digs in deep — almost as would an investigative journalist with a penchant for the underworld. And in that, he brings to the surface all the gritty details of the amazing goings-on with the big, white elephant stationed at the heart of the world’s foremost megatropolis.
Be sure to visit my photography website for HDR photos of Hong Kong. And support the blog and buy a print!
Here’s my video review of Mathews and his 2011 book, Ghetto at the Center of the World.
[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgcIljo_ptQ]
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Journal 42: Philippines Day One
First Day in the Philippines:
I’ve chiseled out about two weeks to spend in the Philippines over the New Year holiday, 2011. During this time, I am interested in seeing two world heritage sites, climbing some mountains, seeing some waterfalls and navigating underground rivers.
This might be an auspicious venture and an unreasonable expectation for Southeast Asia’s black sheep. But I have been pleasantly surprised at my goal’s relinquished rewards in the past. So I continue to set my standards high.
Day one sees me landing in Manila. I landed at about 9:30, well after dark. And Manila, like many Latin-descended capital 
cities, it’s not really safe to fumbling the streets late at night. So I jumped right into a cab and headed for the Stonehouse Hotel, far north of the city.
Strategically, I planned on staying near this location because I wanted to simply leave Manila as soon as possible the next morning. I had bigger plans in mind. In fact, my plans stood 1486 meters high as I planned to crest the lower reaches of its summit within the next two days.
The mountain has an amazing recent history. But first, for reference, I will start on the other side of the world: In 1980, Mount St. Helens, which sits along the Cascade Range in Washington State, erupted like a nuclear bomb and blew fully grown trees to the ground for hundreds of yards in all directions. It was so powerful that it recorded a Volcanic Explosivity Index of 5, the most significant in the contiguous 48 states. It hurled bombs and ash into the air that tormented surrounding states and Canada for months after.
Be sure to check out the Philippines photos at cyleodonnell.com
But when Mt. Pinatubo went of in 1991, it recorded a VEI of 6. It also coincided with a massive tropical storm that happened to have been battering the coast at the time. When they met, the water from the heavens created a surge of mud that buried a handful of villages in the mudflow’s wake. A dozen people died and cleanup and recover took months. It erupted again two years later.
I didn’t know if I was going to take the longer, more strenuous two-day hike with an overnight, sweating to the temperature-cued crickets choir or if I was going to try and shoot straight through in one day. But I knew that I was headed for the world’s most recent VEI-6 explosion and currently active volcano, Mount Pinatubo.
But, as is the case in many other times of seeking out the location of desire, the adventure, I was planning, would be in the voyage.
Below is a video of the first part of the trip (be sure to subscribe to my channel). It covers much more than this journal. But since I’ve already made the video, I might as well put part one of the six-part series in here to add some reference:
[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KM7BnYvzRa8]
[Wanna Help? One way you can help is to please share this video (which can be found on my channel), my photography website and this blog. Email at least ten of your email contacts who might enjoy it. Help spread the word so others can enjoy my travels! If you have any questions, just email me at: cyle@cyleodonnell.com. You can also follow me on facebook, sign up to receive my tweets on Twitter, and see my latest pins on Pinterest!]
Introducing the Author Spotlight:
Here on my blog, I have started to get some feedback as to the recommendations for what I do in those “down times” of travel. So when I find myself on a 13-hour plane ride, and nothing out the window creates enough of a canvas on which to paint my wandering thoughts, I generally turn to books (or audio books on the trusty iPod). So, in the effort of promoting great reads, I will be introducing a new section to the blog: Weekly Author Spotlights. I will be reading, discussing and posting videos about the books I have read throughout my travels.
[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XP7bOMTNFsI]
Okay, so by this point you’ve probably realized that I have made good on my promise to use more video in my blog. But I don’t want to overdo it. So in an effort to ease the video onslaught of late, I have been actively editing lots of text blogs and photos to bring back in. But there’s lots more going on than just that. Read below:
Other important updates: After months of filming for the upcoming film, Travel Geek: Documentary Taiwan, I have finally been able to set aside some time to get the much needed edits done to the the Philippines gallery of photos. So it might be the end of the week before I am able to get this album published, but it should be up at least by the end of the week.
And speaking of the Philippines; I have edited the first of my journals from this latest trip and will be following this post with the first of what will likely turn out to be about ten pages of amazing reflection from Southeast Asia’s black sheep. So thanks for sticking with me throughout all the years of posting, and up next is my latest journals from the Philippines. I know it’s been a while since I’ve posted any actual travel journals. But I have been working on releasing (not one, but) TWO books which should be out soon. I have been editing heaps of video. And I have also been compounding more filming on top of that. So I have been a busy boy.
The gallery of photography from the Philippines will be hosted at cyleodonnell.com. You can reach the page directly by clicking HERE. And new Travel Geek short films are coming out all the time. Just subscribe to my Youtube Channel to receive all the new shorts that I post.
Also, I am getting new subscribers all the time, so I know that some of you have been talking about the page. THANK YOU! I really appreciate the support. But if you could do me one more favor, I’d really appreciate it. Please email one or more of my email updates to at least ten friends in your email contacts list and ask them to subscribe. Anyone that you think would be interested in reading about the updates that I post here, they should sign up for a subscription too. It’s free, and I love getting feedback on what else I should be putting up here on the blog.
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The Many Masks of the Travel Geek
In this short film I discuss the mask collection that I have been putting together throughout my travels around the world. Most of the masks that I currently have, came from countries within Southeast Asia. However, a mask I bought in Hong Kong, was actually made and brought there for sale by a very nice lady from Kathmandu, Nepal. Hopefully I will continue to collect these masks as they do a great job of speaking to the history and culture from which they came. In a manner of speaking, they put a face to their cultural meaning.
